Pavyllon, the new restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel on Park Lane brought over top chef Yannick Alléno. Since Alléno already opened a Pavyllon in Paris, this was the London outpost of that.
While perhaps not so well known on this side of the channel, Alléno is a very big deal indeed in France. He has 15 Michelin stars to his name, more than any other chef except Alain Ducasse, across restaurants that include the three-Michelin-starred Alléno Paris and Le 1947. According to a recent profile in The Times, the vibe he’s going for in London is one of “laid-back luxury” so he’s brought over a whopping 70 staff to make sure that the restaurant achieves just that.
And it really is a busy affair. While the chef wasn’t present during our visit, as service began there were plenty of people in the huge kitchen that covers both the bar and restaurant, all bustling around amid the odd “yes chef” (or was it oui, chef?). There’s a lot of effort behind all this, that’s clear.
You’ll find Pavyllon in the Four Seasons Park Lane, with the nearest tube probably being Hyde Park Corner (but it’s a 5-10 minute walk from Green Park too). Note that Pavyllon has its own entrance on the side of the hotel (on Hamilton Place) and that’s the main entrance to the restaurant and bar. It’s also apparently the only entrance to the bar if you’re not a hotel guest, so head that way if you’re just after a drink.
In addition to the cocktails, you’ll also find a separate bar menu which is led by a selection of sushi, also created in the main Pavyllon kitchen. Even if you’re not going to the restaurant, it’s worth popping along to check out the cocktails and sushi. The bar is also blessed by an extensive outside terrace, one of the best in the area, so that’s well worth grabbing a table at on a good summer’s night.
You’re definitely looking at a fine dining /haute cuisine approach to the food here. So while portions could be seen on the small side in parts, the dishes are rich.
You can either pick from two tasting menus – the four-course Mayfair (£98) or the longer six-course Pavyllon menu (£148), both of which feature some of the signatures. Alternatively, there’s a full a la carte option, which alongside the main starters and mains features a “must-have” section focusing in on some of their big specials. If you’re on a budget (well, a Mayfair budget), the £55 “immersive” lunch is probably the best bet.
The most intriguing dish from the “must-have” section of the menu is their version of surf and turf – a wagyu beef mille feuille and blue lobster tail. it does come at a whopping £179 price point though. This brings us to pricing – we’re definitely at the upper end of Mayfair pricing at Pavyllon, particularly if you’re going the a la carte route. But as mentioned, the lunch would be a good option to try the food at a more reasonable budget.
There is an absolute tome of a wine list that a wine lover will have a great time leafing through.