Australian diners will have the opportunity to try British chef Simon Rogan’s most revered dishes from his three Michelin star restaurant L’Enclume, when it opens at Bathers’ Pavilion on July 19.

The collaborating restaurants have today announced the eight-course, $420 menu at L’Enclume’s residency will feature the famous fritter of Duroc pig and smoked eel with fermented sweetcorn; the seaweed custard with beef broth and bone marrow; and the “anvil” dessert.

The anvil is a signature dish at L’Enclume in Cumbria in the UK, which pays homage to the restaurant’s history as a 13th century blacksmithing forge. It’s served with a golden anvil sigil, stamped into caramel mousse, and accompanied by miso caramel, apple and spruce.

Rogan and about a dozen of his team members will relocate to Australia from Cartmel, on the border of the Lake District, for what is more of a takeover than a pop-up.

“They’re not phoning it in; Simon is bringing the A-team out,” says Bathers’ head chef Cameron Johnston, who will travel in April to the UK restaurant with other senior staff to immerse themselves in the famed L’Enclume culture.

“Our front of house will be shadowing their service. It’s all in,” Bathers’ co-owner Jessica Shirvington says.

The attention to detail will extend to the tableware, with each dish handcrafted specifically for the event by Australian ceramic artists Malcom Greenwood, Simon Reece and Leia Sherblom of Grit Ceramics. The anvil dessert will be eaten with one of just 100 wooden spoons, hand carved by artist Ted O’Donnell.

Diners at the residency will be able to pair their eight-course meal with a selection of rare wines from The Royal Mail in Dunkeld, considered to be Australasia’s most revered wine cellar.

The vintages available for pre-order include the 1982, 1990, 2005, 2009 from Château Cheval Blanc, Château Mouton Rothschild, Château Margaux and Penfolds. There will also be some exclusive bottles available, such as the 2018 Château Petrus (a red wine that sells for around $15,700 per bottle, on average).

Alternatively, L’Enclume head sommelier Valentin Mouillard has worked with Bathers’ Pavilion’s director of operations Tom Sykes to curate four wine lists, priced between $190 to $750 per person.

The restaurants have also revealed an opportunity for 20 hospitality young guns (both front and back of house) to dine at the chef’s table, free of charge, for lunch on Thursday, July 27, and Tuesday, August 8.

Rogan, who founded The Academy by Simon Rogan in the UK, is expected to share his insight on fine dining, sustainable gastronomy and the future of food.

“We are passionate about developing skills and sharing knowledge,” Rogan says.

“[I am] looking forward to meeting some of Australia’s brightest young hospitality minds who are hungry for a long-standing career in the industry.”

Last year L’Enclume picked up its coveted third star, making the restaurant the only restaurant at that rarefied level in the north of England.

Rogan, an unabashed fan of Sydney’s Quay restaurant and Victoria’s Brae and Attica, told Good Food he’s always “had the ambition to do something in Australia” and has already tapped his network for advice on produce.

“I’m good friends with Clare Smyth and I’ve been talking to her about it. Oncore has been a massive success in Sydney,” he says.

“Obviously the fish and shellfish are very different to what we have, so I’m excited to use the produce I experienced on my last visit – mud crab, freshwater marron, etc. I did a pop-up at Yan in Singapore, and a lot of the vegetables came from Australia, and they were superb quality, so again, I’m looking forward to using those.

“When we go anywhere, we immerse ourselves in the locality, and really try to connect to the area through our food. Sustainability is a big part of our ethos, and in the Lake District we grow as much of our ingredients as possible on our very own farm.”

With a small stable of restaurants spanning London and Hong Kong, Rogan is able to pluck senior talent from different parts of his empire for the Sydney gig.

“This is definitely a major event for us given that the L’Enclume residency at Bathers’ Pavilion runs for five weeks. Luckily, we have a large team of amazing chefs we are able to call upon and we will have a number coming from Cartmel, London and Hong Kong to make up the brigade,” he says.


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